Help picking an AR-15?

Question

I'm just starting to do research in the Ar's I would like to buy one for many diffrent reason. The caliber I would like is .223 because it's a very common bullet. There are so many brands and designs I'm just trying to find a good reliable and affordable gun. I'm looking for models with flat top and Troy rails because one of the things I like about AR is the ability to customize it. Later on I would like to get a silencer so if there is a better way to plan for that now before I have the gun. I want to be able to put a scope and shoot a couple hundred yards and hunt. But also have a red dot sight to practice close range shots. Pictures brands prices any details you have would be great. I know for the .223 you don't look for .223 but 5.56mm I'm new to buying ARs and just looking for some help

Answer 1

AR-15's are like cats. You start off with 1 cat - it's small and cute - and before you know it you are that weird cat lady at the end of the street with a house full. Welcome to my world.



Please keep doing your research before spending your hard earned money. I would recommend you seek out someone in your town that builds AR's and pick their brain. The internet is full of disinformation.



I am one of the very few people here that own a suppressor. I actually have several. I started out with a 223 suppressor - and quickly learned that it only killed the noise at the muzzle, it did nothing for the equally loud ballistic crack a bullet makes when going faster than 1080fps and breaking the sound barrier. Next, I learned ammo that went slower than 1080 didn't cycle. Ok, after two years I figured out how to make it cycle - but - it was a ton of work and I had to cast my own bullets at home.



The rest of the AR community - they went a different route. Instead of trying to get a tiny 62 to 80 grain bullet to run subsonic - they cut the 5.56mm case and expanded it to 30cal so it could fire 110 to 240gr bullets subsonic. This, is called the 300 Blackout. Not only did this make the AR happy and easy to run with a suppressor - it also made the AR legal for deer hunting in all 50 states because it tossed a 30 cal bullet. Other nice thing - when you buy a 30cal suppressor you can use in calibers that are smaller - like 243, 223 etc. So this 1 suppressor works on all the other AR types.



In competition - we use a 20" match heavy barrel and fire 68 to 90gr match ammo out to 600yards with 5.56mm. The 300 Blackout is never going to do this. The light ammo only move at 2300fps and the subsonic stuff is 990fps and pretty slow. So, having one upper in 300 Blackout for hunting and using a suppressor and a second upper for long range shooting in 5.56mm is quite common. So is having a 3rd carbine upper with a 16" lightweight barrel for home defense.



Currently - it takes 10-11 months for your Form 4 to be approved for suppressor ownership. If you bought a 30cal suppressor today - maybe you could have it in your hands by October 2015. So - if you want a suppressor, you need to get the ball rolling asap.



If you remotely think that 300 Blackout is for you - you should take a reloading class and start accumulating the equipment. Blackout ammo is $28 to $40 a box...... however I can take 20 pieces of 5.56mm brass I find on the ground and turn them into Blackout ammo for $1.28 a box of 20 and a little time.



I build match and tactical AR's. I used to repair them for the local police dept. I have a 100yd range just a mile from my home and a 1600yd range about 9 miles away...... so I pop out all the time to test things. You can email me your questions. I have guys at work who own the 6.8 and 6.5 if you need info on those - that is a road I did not go down.

Answer 2

There are dozens of AR-15 manufacturers, and even more configurations of AR's. But don't worry, because they almost all follow the same basic design. And you can always change and adapt your gun as you see fit down the line. One of the fantastic things about the AR platform is the adaptability.



Most AR-15 rifles come in the "carbine" version. That means the barrel is about 16", and the stock is adjustable to fit your length of pull. 16" is the minimum legal length of barrel a rifle can have, before it becomes a restricted item. 18", 20" and longer barrels are also available, but typically only used for dedicated varmint and target rifles. Stick with a 16" for your first gun, as it is the most versatile.



Instead of rambling off makers and models, I'll just tell you some of the things you want to look for in the gun.



-Make sure the gun is Mil-spec. That means the parts are made to the same dimension and quality as military grade guns. This is important, because it will make finding accessories and parts for the gun easier. And they are generally of better quality.



-Get a direct impingement gun. This is the originally AR operating system, and is near universal when finding parts. Piston guns are usually propriety systems, and getting new parts is usually harder.



-Make sure the gun you are getting is capable of shooting both 5.56NATO and .223 Remington. Guns chambered in only .223 Remington should not fire 5.56. But guns chambered in 5.56 can fire either safely.



-If at all possible, find a gun that uses a mid-length gas system. Your gun will cycle a bit more smoothly, and have less recoil. However, the is nothing wrong with using a standard carbine length system too.



-Concerning barrel twists, the 1in7 twist is most popular because it can stabilize heavier bullets. However, most people over think this. Using 1in8 or 1in9 is just fine for your typical 55-62 grain loads.



-Make sure you get a gun that has a flat top receiver. This makes mounting various types of optics and sights much easier.



-Remember that not all guns come from the factory with iron sights. Some models require you buy sights, so make sure you factor that cost into the gun. No matter what other optic you plan on adding down the line, owning, training and shooting iron sights on any rifle is an essential fundamental.



-Concerning fore ends. There are a lot of different configurations to get . Old school hand guards are very light, but you are limited to what you can mount.



Full quad rails were very popular for awhile, because they offer a lot of real estate and makes mounting any accessory very easy. However, they do add a lot of weight to the gun. The more you own and adapt the gun to your needs, the more you may realize that you really don't need THAT much space and weight. Most people only need a small section of rail to mount the one or two items they need.



Keymod style fronts are the new and popular option because they are light, and you can mount accessories in a variety of places. They are essentially hollow tubes, with notches/holes cut in them. You can attach just a small piece of rail, only a few inches long, and mount your accessories this way. However they are the most expensive.



A good compromise in weight and modular capabilities is the Magpul MOE fore end.



You are not stuck with the only fore end that comes with the gun. You can buy and swap out for other ones if you decide you want to change it. So don't get too caught up with that just yet.



Accessories you will want for you gun.

-Spare parts kit

-Lots of quality magazines

-A case

-A cleaning kit

-Cleaning/lube products. Stick to Breakfree CLP for now. It's what the military uses.

-Snap caps



Things you will want to get for your gun down the line

-Sling

-Optic

-Light



I don't know what kind of budget you are working with, so I can't give any recomendations for brands and such. Bare bones AR-15s can run as low as $500-$600. A good "mid-grade, mil-spec" gun will run between $800-$1000, and top tier guns can go as high as you can imagine.



As far as suppressors go, that's a whole world of it's own. The time it takes to get the proper paper work and tax stamps filed and approved is a long time, so hopefully by then , you will have a better understanding of the workings of the gun.

Answer 3

You are WAY overthinking this. Your best bet is to purchase a budget-line AR you like, and learn it. Learn the rifle, learn its manual of arms, learn how to shoot it. THEN worry about all the crap you're going to bolt on it like some demented Rube Goldberg device. As much as it pains me, the S&W M&P 15 is a decently priced entry level AR. But it is not the only one. Also consider Double Star Arms or Olympic.



Remember, LEARN THE GUN before you start worrying about how to customize it.



In order to LEARN THE GUN you have to actually HAVE one. No amount of "research" will be a substitute for experience.

Answer 4

First a "Troy" rail does not make it any more customizable than a Midwest Industries rail or a BCM rail or any other of a few dozen rails.



All AR-15s are customizable. If you don't know what you are doing you can pay a lot of money for feature you don't need or name brand

Answer 5

Go buy yourself a S&W M&P15 that has the features you want; the M&P15OR is one that should do it for you. And don't worry about "Troy" rails. Anything with MIL-STD-1913 rails (a.k.a. Picatinny rails) will take any accessory you want to mount on the gun.



You really are putting way too much thought into this.

Answer 6

Obviously you are new to buying ARs. If you want a .223 Remington chamber, you look for a .223 REMINGTON chamber, not a 5.56x45 chamber.

Answer 7

Dude, just go to a gun store - in person. They have people who work there who will be glad to help you pick an AR.

Answer 8

Both of these have Troy TRX rails (one an Extreme, the other the VTAC), and the more expensive one has a Geissele trigger (definitely a desirable upgrade) and 5R rifling (pretty desirable for precision, probably not crazy practical for a combat-type rifle).



http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_802551_-1_787653_757785_757784_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_766300_-1_787653___ProductDisplayErrorView_Y



The downside is that even though both have flash hiders, they both have pinned 14.5" barrels to make them 16-16.1", which will make it difficult to remove the flash hider and install a suppressor without making it an SBR.



The upside is that it comes from a highly regarded AR-15 manufacturer and the quality of the rifle should be really good.



You should be able to shoot .223 Rem through a 5.56 NATO stamped gun just fine. Ideally, you'd get one with a .223 Wylde chamber, but those are harder to find as complete rifles or uppers.





Most likely, what you will have to do to get the features you want, is purchase a lower and then purchase an upper separately and combine them.



That's no big deal to do, a lot of ARs are built that way.



Here are some uppers that have a suitable barrel length that you can take the flash hider off and install a suppressor, and that have Troy TRX float tubes. The price isn't crazy expensive, so you just need a complete lower to go with it:

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-SS410-18-Rifle-Length-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-18%20ss410%20vtrx13.htm

Here's one with a different Troy modular rail:

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-SS410-18-Rifle-Length-Upper-Receiver-Group-w-p/bcm-urg-18-ss410-sdmr13.htm



If you get a tax stamp for an SBR, you could get something like:

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Standard-12-5-Upper-Receiver-Group-VTAC-p/bcm-urg-std-12%20vtrx11.htm

Answer 9

Here are a couple experienced guys...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=nutnfancy+ar+15



"The Perfect AR-15" by Nutnfancy, 5.56x45mm; For short range (CQC), upper 16" barrel, Aimpoint 2mil dot for deep snow, Bushmaster; For one choice, most use, and longer range, 18" Stoner barrel mid-weight profile fluted, 7 lbs, DI, Griffin muzzle, 13" Troy Alpha rail, Chip McCormick trigger, Nikon BuckMasters 4x14" (med qual), Unamount Night force scope mounts, no scope covers, commercial stock tube, Magpull CTR or MOE stock, MOE grip, 8lbs 11oz.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJASJhcFQSc

7.62x51 preferred for combat rifle. With size, weight, resupply (POU), then AR-15 comes in.

DI vs Piston, DI for semi, piston for auto.

Duracoat dark earth

20" barrel too heavy, approaching 308 weight. 11lb. Less than 16" barrels take too much away from a weak round.

30 mil scope weighs more, costs more; 1" scope gathers light just fine.



Best AR 15 scopes, nutnfancy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEE59GKnk2k

Feb 2013: $200-400 med price. 50-300 med yds, < 20 oz for close to med range (even longer range), mid range doesn't need target turrets, 30mm is not needed unless night shooting, shorter is better, eye relief 1.5" excellent, field of view very imp

Weaver rimfire 3-9x32 AO 12oz, 11.3" OAL, 849318 usable on AR, 3.1 eye, 60" $220

Weaver 2.5-7x32, 10 oz, dual x reticle, or TMR, $150.

Weaver 849405 2-10x38, 11oz, 12.3" OAL, $160, 3.3-3.6, dual x, 70" highly recommended

Redfield Revolution 2-7x33 67085, USA, great eye relief 3.7-4.9", 11oz, 65" adj, $190

Redfield Revolution 3-9x40, 67095 12.6oz, $210

Burris 3-9x40 Fullfield II #200159, 13oz, 3.1-3.8 eye excellent, 50" adj, 13-33', $200, love em, no zero stop (mark the tube), great dials

Burris 4-14x42 FFL II, 200185, 18oz, 22-17, 40" adj $300 13" OAL, 3.1-3.8 eye

US Optics SN-3, 1.8-10x TPAL 24oz, $200

Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40, #6453 18oz, good dials, 6.8-20' FOV, SF, 3.1-3.6 eye, side paralax adj, not great FOV, $230

Nikon M223s 2-8x32, 8486, 15oz heavy, 11" OAL, 3.8" eye, $330, big turrets

Burris sets the standard for mid-value scopes, clarity, high rec for night

Burris 2.5-10x30, MTACs have replaced TAC 30s, good scopes 80" adj, illuminated, 15oz, 13" OAL, $360

Burris 6.5-20x50 really like for long range 200199/200193, SPR POU, 19oz, super bright and clear 95%, down side 30" adj and 1" tube, have to shim the scope to get long range, $400

Nikon 3-12x32, 8488, 20oz heavy, 13" OAL, 60" good FOV 8.4-33, $450

Weaver 6-24x42 17.6oz, 14" OAL, semi target turrets, 3.1" eye a little critical, mil dot, 1" tube $340 849412

Bushnell Elite 3200 5-15x40, #325154, 19oz, outstanding dials, 90% light trans, 4.3 eye, mildo, 50" adj $390

Leopold 1.5-5x20, #54902, non-ball reticle, illuminated, 3.6-4.4 eye relief, 14oz, $500

Voretex Viper PST 6-24x50, EBR-1 reticle, 30mm, FFP, 4" eye, 23oz $900

Leopold 2.5-8x36, illuminated, Mark IV, dual knob 3-3.7 eye relief. $1100, 16 oz, not worth it unless you spend hours in the scope.

Leopold 4.5-14x50, #60005, M1 dials, 12.5" OAL, 22oz, $1200

Nightforce 2.5-10x32 NXS Compact 19oz, 12" OAL, illuminated, critical eye relief 3.7", great field of view 44-11', zero turret stops, $1200

Nightforce generally too heavy for longer range, unless you need extreme toughness. 30 oz.



Gun Porn at Gunnies: Best AR-15 for Under $1000

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mt9P0HTHojc



Good luck, shoot safe.

Answer 10

go to a AR forum...ok ?