Cast lead bullet help?

Question

I've recently started loading for 40sw, using 2 different grain weight cast lead bullets, my problem is lead fouling of the barrel. I'm NOT shooting these lead bullets thru any polygonal barrels, so that's not an issue here.
Is there any product, solvent etc that's commonly available that's just for removing leading? Hoppes number 9 works, but it takes about an hour to do each pistol barrel. I've also tried some Freds Red, (homemade gun solvent) it seems to do the same job that Hoppes does. I'd really appreciate some help from you fellow shooters/reloaders that may have discovered some magical formula for removing lead fouling. Meanwhile, I'll be here scrubbing away.

Just a side note, I'm not even close to max SAAMI pressures, I've been downloading the leads to run about 800 to 850 FPS. I would expect leading with higher pressures, but apparently that's not the case here.

Answer 1

You might consider a bullet lube to reduce leading also.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=503552&t=11082005

There are other bullet lubes that reduce lead build up, that one is just the one I like.

I had the same problem as you, but with light .44 spl swc rounds; they leaded like mad. The faster .44 spl rounds with a swc bullet hardly leaded at all. But the hot rounds leaded up real bad.

So I started using that lube and leading was reduced a great deal.



I also use the Lewis lead remover it works good.

Answer 2

Lyman 47 edition show the 50/50 mix of pure lead and linotype at a BHM of 15 Your wonting between 12 and 16 so you are there with the 50/50 mix. This mix also shows it is one of the 4 mixes that can be heat treated. Lyman No2, Taracorp Magnum, 50/50 lead/lino and Wheelweights. So if you wont to stay at the BHM 15 you need to let it cool at room temperature. I drop mine out of the mold on to an old towel folded in half to cool. To make it harder quick quench in water, to make it the hardest quick quench in ice water. I have tried it and it does work well, and the ice quenched is very hard, I made up some 150 grain SWC for my 357 mag that punched through a phone book that measured 3 inches thick and when I recovered the slug from the dirt back stop there was not much deformation at all. I have found that I have no leading what so ever when I use the Lyman Orange Magic bullet lube with my cast bullets, where as all other lubes have shown some leading for my weapons. The Orange Magic lube does need some heat to flow right in the lube seizer, I use a small heat lamp pointed at the base of the lube seizer about ½ hour before I start my lube sizing. I have never needed the heated base plate.

Answer 3

I started to say you were loading them too hot and trying to push lead to fast, which causes leading. But I read that you are holding them under 850 FPS which should be fine. I hate shooting lead in any pistol, I got so tired of cleaning the lead out. I only shoot lead in revolvers now a days. I used to use a kit that was available that used brass screens that you ran thru the barrel to scrub the lead out faster. Worked ok, but still took time. You can use several liquid lead removers, all worked about the same when I was trying them. I had a buddy that just set his in a plastic bucket that had solvent in it and he would leave it soak a day or two, then it seemed to clean easier. But again, very time consuming. Wish I knew an "easy" way to help ya!

Good luck

Answer 4

First, I did note the statement about the max pressures and the velocity. Some powders do a better job with lead than others due to the 'speed' and heat at which they burn. Faster and hotter means more leading.

Now with that said, how about your lead mixture. Are you casting your own? are you buying commercial cast?

If casting your own, made sure you keep the lead/tin/antimony mixture correct. 90-5-5 percent is a good mixture (90% lead, 5% tin and 5% antimony) this will help reduce leading.

If you are buying commercial cast, I would look for a bullet with a high temp lube, as these seemed to work well with my reloads. I believe the last commercial I loaded used RED ROOSTER lube.

And as everyone else stated, get the Lewis, it is a great investment if you shoot lead.

Answer 5

After shooting lead, fire a few jacketed bullets to end your shooting session. This should help push out some of the lead fouling.



I've always used the regular solvents like Hoppe's and Shooters Choice, so I know what you mean about scrubbing. The lead removing solvents mentioned by others shound like good ideas.

Answer 6

Go with the Lewis Lead Removal System along with J-B Bore Cleaning Compound available from Brownells.com. Works every time.......Worth every penny.....Takes 15 minutes!



http://www.brownells.com

1-800-741-0015 Customer Service

Answer 7

I have used brownells lead remover in my rugers,its not a chemical, it is a rod with a wedge and screen to scrap out the lead.



You may want to use a plated lead like Rainier's from midwayusa.com. They will cut down on your lead exposure, and help you get more life out of your auto. Lead tends to push harder down your bbl increasing pressures resulting in a more violent slam of your slide wearing you gun out quicker.



sorry, the lead remover is a lewis

Answer 8

there are some types of solvents aimed at BPCR (long range black powder rifles) Try Shiloh Creek Bore Solvent



some folks will even run a lead-away cloth or Lyman's Turbo Polishing Cloth through the barrel.



also, remember to lube your lead bullets well

Answer 9

Boker, you didn't mention lube at all. Here is a really easy solution. Take a look at the reviews on this product.